The Blue Memo #15
Cyprus mountain gems, the old becomes new & 'cooler' summer destinations
For those who may not know, I was born in Cyprus, in the now Turkish-occupied northern part of the island, in a village called Karavostasi, literally meaning “a stop for the boats” . Karavostasi is a quaint seaside village located a stone’s throw away from the beautiful Soli ancient amphitheatre and with a then buzzing promenade lined by beautiful citrus trees.
I only spent 3 years of my life there, as in July of 1974 our family fled the island in search of safety and a new home due to the Turkish invasion. Many Cypriots migrated to the U.K., Greece, Southern Cyprus and of course Australia. We settled in Athens, Greece where I went on to spend my kinder, primary school and a couple of my high school years there before moving to Melbourne.
The last time I went to Cyprus was in 2017 on a family holiday. I’ve always enjoyed going back and re-acquainting myself with the delicious food – a blend of Greek and Middle Eastern flavours – the people, the heat (even though it gets a bit much), the beaches, and last but not least the mountains for some respite from the hot weather. And it does get very hot. I’m now thinking that it’s been too long between visits and there are signs popping up often to nudge me into wanting to visit again, sooner rather than later.
Tourism campaigns tend to focus on the island’s beaches, in particular Agia Napa, Nissi Beach, Fig Tree Bay and Coral Bay amongst others. The list is long. The most recent tourist attraction is the newly developed ‘Dubai-esque’ Limassol Marina with its superyachts and state-of-the-art facilities, exclusive restaurants, and lux accommodation.
And let’s face it, beaching it in Cyprus is mostly where it’s at. Most people travel to the island to swim, eat and drink in the hot days and balmy nights for weeks on end.
But it’s the mountains that captured my heart on our last travels there.
The temperatures drop gently as one heads up the Troodos ranges and you immediately feel more relaxed and comfortable. I think it may have to do with your body finally cooling down to a more agreeable temperature that allows you to be more patient and take your time to drive and walk around the natural sites. Switching the air conditioning off, and rolling down the windows to allow the soft mountain breeze and the aroma of the herbs and the pine trees to take over your senses is a must when you’re up in the hills.
My father’s family comes from Pedoulas, a small mountain village full of heart and cherry trees. When we were there in 2017, my dad’s cousin insisted we stay for lunch and gifted us a crate of mouth-watering cherries from their orchard on our way out.
We had booked to stay in a quaint boutique resort for the night, “Casale Panayiotis” in the neighbouring village of Kalopanayiotis. This mountain spa resort consists of traditional guest houses that have been tastefully restored to include balconies overlooking Marathasa Valley. There is a quaint library and two restaurants, one serving traditional Cypriot dishes with a focus on seasonal produce from the hotel’s own orchards and the other focusing more on meaty and seafood grills, both equally amazing and with terrace sitting to take in the breathtaking valley views.
Breakfast was served in the hotel’s café with the highlight being our Greek coffee being slowly brewed on hot sand “Hovoli” style, with special equipment mimicking hot ashes and allowing the coffee to boil slowly and keep its aromas and thick cream on top. Paired with locally and freshly made pastries like Haloumopitta (halloumi cheese pies with fresh mint) and Eliopitta (Olive pies with onion and mint), while sitting on the balcony soaking up the morning sun rays, these are hard moments to forget. And I never will.
The thermal spring spa that was nearing completion at the time is now fully operational and goes by the name ‘Myrianthousa’ featuring an outdoor hydrotherapy pool, a herbal steam room, a snow and mud cabin, private whirlpools and a range of dreamy treatments guaranteed to deflate you and destress you. (Why haven’t I booked to return yet?)
Moving about 10kms south towards Prodromos village, a striking stone structure stands derelict on its lonesome on the side of the mountain. It’s the well-known Berengaria Hotel which has had a rich history since its inception in 1931.
In its glory days, it was known as the hidden jewel of the mountains when it would host visitors such as Farouk, the King of Egypt, and President of Israel Ezer Vaisman as well as top dignitaries and businessmen of the time. It was designed by Henrik Clark and built by Michalis Kokkalos. For 53 years it was known for its excellence in service and the constant rotation of elite guests.
In 1984 however, it suddenly closed down after Mr Kokkalos left it to his three sons to manage. Rumours of vanity and greed started circling and to add to these, it was said that the three brothers all died at the hotel under mysterious circumstances, labelling it as ‘haunted’ for many years to come. What added to the creepiness of the hotel was the fact that the furniture, beds and crockery were left lying around the hotel, together with old postcards that were scattered all over the entrance.
In 2020, the Limassol-based BBF Property Group bought the hotel and has promised to breathe new life into it and revive it to its former ‘queen of the mountains’ status by carefully blending the past with the present. The second phase is well underway and projected to be finished by early 2024 with the whole project expected to finish sometime in 2026.
In a recent press release it was rightly mentioned that the bonus for the area is that “through this project, efforts are made to strengthen the community of Prodromos—where the hotel is located—as well as the broader Troodos area, with the aim of establishing the mountainous regions as year-round destinations for wellness and quality living.”
In another mountainous area, 1.5 hours southeast of Prodromos, I was very excited to read about The Agora Hotel when flicking through the Spring issue of Konfekt magazine, Monocle’s sister publication.
The Agora is a new, cool and creative adults-only boutique accommodation in Lefkara village. This is a picturesque mountain village situated at the foot of the Troodos mountains, a 40-minute drive from Larnaca airport. It is where the Cypriot folk needlecraft art was born - the famous “lefkaritiko” - whose reputation has gone beyond the island and has become known in most European countries.
Danish couple Aleksander Eng & Emilie Green Novel, having visited Cyprus, were determined that something was missing from the island from a “luxury boutique with a difference” perspective.
The Agora Hotel is located at a unique location in Pano (upper) Lefkara at a spot where the village market used to be. The two have given this place the stylish shake-up it needed to create a hotel space that has been described as ‘chilled-out and sociable’. The earth-toned interiors and Emilie’s creative touches which include widely sourced craft and vintage pieces provide the modern comforts we all dream of adopting in our homes.
There is a parlour and a library, a courtyard, bikes to rent, a heated outdoor pool, a small gym and a yoga room. The hotel restaurant “Novel” is inspired by the surroundings and focuses on Mediterranean flavours and simple produce. The bar is “a casual, sophisticated living room for guests and locals to come together”.
On the hotel’s website, their Belong section reads:
‘Agora is defined as “to gather” in ancient Greek or more known as “a market” - this has laid the foundation of what our concept is all about. We are honoured to give new life to what was once the marketplace and heart of Lefkara. Now, the doors will reopen to reveal a place where moments will be lived and memories collected. The soul of our hotel tells a story of connection and creativity. ‘
Casale Panayiotis, Berengaria and The Agora all seem to have a few things in common, beyond their mountain locations. They provide holiday destinations that satisfy all the senses. Perfect temperatures with fresh mountain air, breathtaking views, traditional village vibes, authentic seasonal food with a focus on boutique hospitality. All-year destinations for all the senses. Tick, tick and tick.
See you next time!
Alki, just in time after our conversation yesterday. Definitely worth a trip 💙