The Blue Memo #36

The Athens new eatery & wine bar scene & Pharaoh - an Athenian success story

There’s a wave of new wine bars and cool neighbourhood eateries popping up all over Athens. Scrolling through Instagram—which I’m guilty of doing far too often—you can’t help but notice more and more of these niche little wine and snack spots opening in the city centre and its neighbouring suburbs like Exarchia, Pagrati, Koukaki, and Neos Kosmos. Names such as Materia Prima, Ex-Machina, Wine is Fine, Kennedy amongst others come to mind.

The ‘meze’ is getting more inventive, sometimes with international influences, but always with those unmistakable Greek undertones—olive oil, lemon juice, garlic are practically a given.

Wine lists are becoming more specialised and exciting, making it entirely possible to embark on an Athenian wine crawl on foot—depending, of course, on your state after a few glasses. But in Greece, it’s never just about how much you drink. It’s about who you see, who you talk to, and what you talk about while sipping. Drinking is an afterthought; eating, conversing, and people-watching take centre stage.

Two pioneers of this modern movement, redefining the dining scene and moving away from the traditional taverna with its timber and raffia chairs, wooden tables, and Greek island motif tablecloths, are Pharaoh in Exarchia and Linou Soumpasis & Sia (LS & Sia) in grungy Psirri.

At first glance, Solonos Street seems an unlikely home for a restaurant like Pharaoh. The street at dusk seems dingy, grey, and covered in graffiti, flanked by derelict buildings and eerily quiet. Where is everyone? And yet, the owners of Pharaoh and the design team clearly knew exactly what they were doing, following the age-old philosophy of “If you build it, they’ll come.”

A brutalist building on Solonos St.

And come they have. Athenians have embraced Pharaoh as a local favourite, and for good reason. The food is creative and delicious, the wine list is packed with Greece’s best organic, low-intervention, and natural wines, and the décor is stunning given the space. A striking 16-metre Z-shaped stainless steel bar connects the open kitchen and bar area, with a sleek, handmade black marble light fixture above it. A central DJ booth spins vinyl most nights of the week, underscoring the venue’s commitment to music, fun, and fresh talent. The design preserves the raw beauty of the original 1960s structure, highlighting unrefined materials. Marble dining tables, bistro chairs, well-thought-out lighting, and mirrors create a social, communal atmosphere—people come here to eat, drink, and be seen. The space is also peppered with travel souvenirs and ceramic works by Nikos Vallatos, adding a personal touch.

Ceramics scattered around the restaurant

Pharaoh’s kitchen operates exclusively with wood-fired methods, ensuring every dish carries that rustic, smoky charm. The menu evolves with the seasons, but one thing remains constant: the galaktoboureko. And while I don’t usually love galaktoboureko, Pharaoh’s version is nothing short of divine.

A snap of the main dining room

I was lucky enough to dine at Pharaoh twice. The first time, we met an Australian sommelier who was incredibly passionate about Greek wine and chose a phenomenal rose for us - Rose De Xinomavro by Thymiopoulos.

On my second visit, we found ourselves seated next to a table of Australians—one of whom happened to be a customer of ours who had just spent weeks on Hydra writing a book. I might have felt a twinge of jealousy when she mentioned that detail. But then, things got even stranger—she pointed out that just a couple of tables away sat more Australians she knew from Collingwood —who were also our customers. Same night, thousands of miles away from Melbourne, three tables of Australians who all somehow knew each other, under one roof. That’s the magic of Pharaoh. It’s the kind of place that draws people in, Athenians and visitors alike, thanks to its infectious energy, consistently great food, and effortlessly cool vibe. You never know who you’ll bump into, and that’s part of the charm.

Add Pharaoh to your list for your next trip to Athens—it’s just been recognised for its outstanding design, winning the "Best Designed Restaurant in Greece" award at the GRAIL Design Awards 2025. Twisted your arm yet?

See you next time for my take on L.S. & Sia and more!